October 8th - 15th

IMPORTANT: You should not cut fabric for your toile until your instructor has checked your pattern during class on October 8th.

As discussed in Module 8, after completing a new pattern a designer will always cut and sew a First Toile (a rough sample sewn in muslin) in order to check the pattern, analyze the design and proportions of the garment, test the fit on the body, and work out any kinks in the construction process.

You can read more about "What Is A Toile" in Module 8.

Our First Toiles are going to serving FOUR very important purposes:

First, they will allow you to CHECK YOUR PATTERN, to be sure that you have trued it accurately and that you have notches and correct seam allowance in all areas so that the garment can be constructed neatly.
Second, they will allow you to ANALYZE YOUR DESIGN to see if you like the details and silhouette that you have created.
Third, they will allow you to test the FIT OF THE PATTERN to a body or dress form.
And finally, they will give you a chance to PRACTICE THE CONSTRUCTION of the garment and help you better understand the reason for the pattern shapes and markings that we use and the proper order of construction for your particular garment. It is a great idea when sewing a first toile, to keep detailed notes about the order of assembly. If you struggle with construction, or if you find mistakes in the pattern that need to be corrected for proper assembly, you can note those as well.

All of these are excellent reasons to construct a toile of your original patterns... so lets get busy sewing!

Here are some generalized instructions for constructing a toile. Your specific patterns will vary, but keep in mind some of the tips below to create a successful sample garment.

Step 1: Cutting the Toile

- First Toiles are almost always cut out of muslin, but any type of inexpensive plain weave cotton can also work.
- Be sure to PRESS and STEAM your muslin before you cut it to remove all wrinkles and fold lines and allow it to shrink if it needs to.
- Lay out your pattern carefully following the grain lines you have marked on each piece.
- You should cut a single layer of fabric for your Cut 1 pieces, but you can lay out 2 layers of fabric for your Cut 2 pieces to save time if you like. If you decide to cut the Cut 2 pieces one at a time, be sure to flip your pattern upside down before cutting the 2nd one. (Note: Muslin does not have an essential right and wrong side, but it is still a good idea to practice correct cutting technique).
- Be sure to clip all your notches and mark or punch your fabric at the drill holes.

Step 2: Constructing The Toile

Before you begin sewing, take a moment to consider the construction steps you will need to complete. Make a list for yourself, and keep the paper nearby so you can take notes as you sew. The following would be a rough guide for the order of things, but your specific design may vary a bit. Feel free to reach out to your instructor if you have questions about construction.

- - Staystitch (single row of stitching, 2.5 stitch length, no backstich) inside the seam allowance on the following areas of each pattern piece:
    - Neckline edge
    - Armhole edge if design is sleeveless
    - Waist edge if constructing a skirt.
  - Construct Darts, Pleats, Tucks or Gathers
  - Sew Side Seams
  - Sew Shoulder Seams
  - Sew Waist Seam if required
  - Set-in sleeves if required

The following is a slideshow taken from FASH 60 Draped Design and it walks you through the process of sewing a toile of a sloper pattern. Your original designs for this project will be different in some of the details, but it might be useful to see some of these steps in action:

Click Next for the Midterm Project Assignment Submission Instructions