OPTIONAL- Only if your sloper does not already have a sleeve!

Draft a Sleeve for the Basic Sloper

To draft the sleeve, you will use some standard measurements that are typical for fitted sleeves, AND you will need to measure the Front and Back Armholes on your own Bodice Pattern.

Here is a PDF of the Sleeve Drafting Instructions if you would like to download and/or print: FASH60_SleeveDraft.pdf

Standard Measurements:

Sleeve Length: 24” (from shoulder tip to wrist)

Cap Height 5 ½” (for fitted sleeve it is approx. 1/3 of total AH circumference)

Elbow length 13 ½” (elbow level is approx. 1” above halfway from wrist to bicep)

Wrist Circumference 9” (includes ease to fit hand through)

Measure on your Bodice Pattern:

Front AH Measurement

Back AH Measurement

Using the diagram below, begin drafting the sleeve onto dot paper as follows:

Overarm Length

1. 1. A-B Overarm length measurement. Draw vertical line. A is top of cap, B is wrist. Square a line horizontal at A (cap level)
  2. A-C Cap height measurement. Square a line horizontal at this level (bicep level)
  3. A-D Elbow Length measurement. Square a line horizontal at this level

Preparation of Front Sleeve Cap

1. 1. A-E Front Armhole measurement plus 1/8” (measure diagonally from A) Square a vertical line from E to cap level

Preparation of Back Sleeve Cap

1. 1. A-F Back Armhole measurement plus 1/8” (measure diagonally from A) Square a vertical line from F to cap level
  2. F-C Divide into three equal parts and square a vertical line for each section

Front Sleeve Cap

1. 1. Draw a diagonal line from C to opposite corner.
  2. From A, Draw curved line to diagonal cross
  3. From E, draw curved line to blend at diagonal cross. Curve should flatten ½” before E.

Back Sleeve Cap

1. 1. From A, draw curved line to 2^nd lower intersection
  2. From F, draw curved line to blend with upper curve.

Wrist, Underarm, and Elbow Dart

1. 1. G-H/ H-B Half of wrist circumference
  2. E-G/ F-H Connect with straight line
  3. Slash back underarm at elbow level to create dart ½” wide and 3” long
  4. Make E-elbow and F-Elbow slightly curved

Final Grainline and Notches

1. 1. Extend grainline from upper sleeve down to wrist
  2. Walk Armhole to Bodice to locate notches and ease. Cap ease should be ¾” to 1 ¼”. Shoulder notch is placed at center of cap ease.
  3. Notches at Elbow Dart opening on back underarm, notch at elbow level on front underarm.

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