REVIEW Rolled Hems

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A rolled hem, also called a Pin Hem or Baby Hem, is a narrow double fold hem that is useful on lightweight fabrics like chiffon, crepe, or voile. Rolled hems work well for both straight and curved hem shapes. 

As with most sewing techniques, there is more than one way to accomplish a rolled hem, but the two main strategies are described below. One involves using only the regular presser foot and a straight stitch and so can be executed on any type of domestic or industrial lockstitch sewing machine. The second technique uses a specialty presser foot. This technique is faster than the first, but does take more practice to be able to execute a perfect finish. 

 


Rolled Hem Using Regular Presser Foot

Instructions: 

  • Staystitch along the hem edge 1/4" from where you want the finished hem length. 
  • Note: Loosen tension when sewing on a single layer (set to 3 on machine)
  • Fold over fabric to wrong side so the staystitch is just past the fold
  • Stitch on top of the staystitch. Tension can go back up to 4.
  • Trim the excess down to within 1/16" of stitchline.
  • Fold one more time, and stitch on top of previous stitches. 

Watch this Demo for illustration of this technique:

 


Rolled Hem Feet come in a variety of sizes from 2mm to 6mm or even larger. The desired width of hem would depend upon both the fabric and the application. 

Rolled Hem Using Rolled Hem Feet 

When using a rolled hem foot, it can be challenging to get the roll started in the foot, especially when you are starting at the raw edge of fabric.  If so it can be helpful to start by creating a thread "handle" that you will use to guide the fabric into the foot.

Instructions:

  • Fold under 1/8 of hem allowance at the beginning corner of your hem. Stitch about 4 stitches with a backstitch, and then pull out of the machine leaving the thread tail. 
  • Now, use the thread tail to work the hem edge of the fabric into the scroll of the foot. 
  • Begin stitching, watching that you are feeding the correct amount of hem fold into the foot.

 

Watch this Demo for illustration of this technique- and different applications and sizes of rolled hem feet:

 


An Alternate Rolled Hem Demo Video - Shows Both Techniques

  • 2:05 -6:45 Intro and Rolled Hem with Regular Foot
  • 6:45 - 9:40 Using the Rolled Hem Foot

https://youtu.be/d_QnOUUgSpk Links to an external site.

 


Module 2 Sewing Activity #1

Create TWO rolled hem samples. One should be on a straight edge of the fabric, and one should be on a curved edge. You can use either technique described above to create your samples and you can create the roll at any width between 1/16" and 1/4".