First Toile is due Tuesday December 3rd

Do not begin sewing your toile until your instructor has checked your pattern during class on Tuesday November 26th
If you are patterning this for an individual other than yourself, it would be helpful for you to fit the toile on them and bring images of that to class so we can discuss fit.

Description:

Now that you have completed a first draft of the pattern for your original design, you should cut and sew a toile in muslin. The first toile serves several purposes; it lets you test the accuracy of your pattern; it allows you to analyze the success of your pattern in comparison with the sketched design; and it gives you a chance to practice and take notes on the construction order and techniques required for the finished garment.

First toiles are focused on the silhouette and seam lines of the garment as well as any important design details such as pockets, button extensions, and collars. Your first toile does not necessarily need to include finish details such as facings, seam finishes, hems, or button closures although the more detail you can put into it, the more experience you get with the construction. If your closure is a zipper it is important to install that in the first toile.

If you are unsure about what your first toile needs to include you can plan to discuss with your instructor what pattern elements should be included in the first toile.

Directions:

Step 1: Cutting the Toile

First Toiles are almost always cut out of muslin, but any type of inexpensive plain weave cotton can also work.
Be sure to PRESS and STEAM your muslin before you cut it to remove all wrinkles and fold lines and allow it to shrink if it needs to.
Lay out your pattern carefully following the grain lines you have marked on each piece.
You should cut a single layer of fabric for your Cut 1 pieces, but you can lay out 2 layers of fabric for your Cut 2 pieces to save time if you like. If you decide to cut the Cut 2 pieces one at a time, be sure to flip your pattern upside down before cutting the 2nd one. (Note: Muslin does not have an essential right and wrong side, but it is still a good idea to practice correct cutting technique).
Be sure to clip all your notches and mark or punch your fabric at the drill holes.

Step 2: Constructing The Toile

Before you begin sewing, take a moment to consider the construction steps you will need to complete. Make a list for yourself, and keep the paper nearby so you can take notes as you sew. The following would be a rough guide for the order of things, but your specific design may vary a bit. Feel free to reach out to your instructor if you have questions about construction.

Stay stitch (single row of stitching, 2.5 stitch length, no backstitch) inside the seam allowances on the following areas of each pattern piece:
- Neckline edge
- Armhole edge if design is sleeveless
- Waist edge if constructing a skirt.
Install Zipper (sew seams that intersect with the zipper first)
Construct Darts, Pleats, Tucks or Gathers
Install Pockets
Sew Side Seams, shoulder seams, and design lines
Attach neck and armhole facings (if included in first pattern) and/or button extensions. Understitch as needed.
Sew waist seam if required
Set-in sleeves if required
Attach collar or waistband

Don't forget to take your time and PRESS AS YOU SEW!

NOTE: If you need help determining the correct order for sewing your pattern, please reach out to your instructor!

Step 3: Finishing The Toile

For the FIRST TOILE, not all parts of the garment need to be finished.

You SHOULD do the following to get practice in the construction and to analyze the success of the design:
- - Install zippers where required
  - Install waistbands to skirts or pants
  - Install collars if included in the design
  - Construct pockets as patterned.

You DO NOT need to do the following until AFTER the first toile because these areas of the garment may be changed after the first toile and then added in the final garment/ 2nd toile:
- - Finish seam allowances on the inside of the garment.
  - Finish the hem or apply hem facings to garment or sleeves.
  - Install Buttons and buttonholes
  - Apply neckline and/or armhole facings

Click NEXT to continue to Final Project Step Four