Demo at the bottom of the page shows all steps described:

Staystitch Neckline

Pattern Directions Step 1

Staystitching is a simple but important step in garment construction that will help to keep your fabric from stretching as you sew. Typically, a staystitch is applied in areas of a pattern with an extreme curve like the neckline. Staystitching should be completed on each pattern piece immediately after cutting and before any seams are sewn.

The staystitch is just a single row of stitching, at a regular stitch length (2.5) that is sewn inside the seam allowance and is not visible in the finished garment. Note that the seam allowance at the neckline is 1/4" so your staystitch should be between 1/8" and 1/4" from the cut edge (3/16" is ideal). You should staystitch the front and back neckline of the bodice. Be careful not to stretch the neckline as you sew, just allow the fabric to be pulled through the machine, gently guiding it around the curve of the neck (see video at the bottom of the page).

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Sew Bust Darts

Pattern Directions Step 1

If you have marked your darts as directed, you should now have notches at the garment edge and a drill hole that is 1/2" from the dart vanishing point.

You should now sew the TWO BUST DARTS in your dress with the same technique used for the Plain Dart Sample in Week 10. After sewing, the dart allowance should be pressed downwards... this means the excess on the inside of the garment is hangs down towards the waist.

Sew Shoulder Seams

Pattern Directions Step 2

The next step is to sew the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seams. Seam allowance width at the shoulder is 1/2". After sewing the seam, you should zig zag the seam allowances together, trim the seam allowance to the zig zag and press the seam allowances towards the back bodice.

NOTE: You could use an overlock to finish your seam allowances if you have one. Alternatively you could sew a french seam or flat felled seam if desired.

Watch this video for further explanation of all three of these steps:

Click NEXT to learn about facings